Surfing Big Waves
As any surfer and they will tell you they love big waves. Big waves challenge you and there is lots of things to concentrate on. When you surf big waves you must be focused on your surroundings. When you paddle for a big set wave your body pours out more adrenaline than you every knew was possible. Big waves bring big risks, which is go for the human body. When you surf large waves your endurance and physical fitness will be put to the test. But the speed and power feels great once you are up and riding. Surfers are drawn to big waves for the danger that lies beneath.
To surf big waves many years of training is required. You can not just decide you want to go surf a 30 foot wave one day. You must be mentally and physically strong to ride these large mountains of water. One skill you must have for big wave surfing is being able to hold your breath for a long time. If you wipe out you could be under water for over 1 minute. All of these factors are why there is only an elite crew of big wave surfers.
See Ya at The Beach,
The Surfboard Man
Comments
-
TSM T-Shirts
