Yesterday my eyes were glued to my computer as some of the worlds best took on one of the heaviest and most powerful waves in the world. The webcast makes the takeoff look easy, but its a different story in real life.
But as I sat and watched the 2012 Billabong Pro, I couldn't help but be remind of the lack of swell our local beaches were experiencing. Its been a mostly flat summer with only a handful of solid days. It leaves surfers like me unsure of what to do and hoping for a strong run of swells this coming fall. But deep down I know that this Fall could be the same sad story.
While the surf has been flat and my enthusiasm for surfing has dropped, I am still the first one checking the surf in the morning, hoping to see a glimpse of a swell. Its less about finding those picture perfect days and more about just finding a wave.
If you live in Southern California than you know exactly what I am talking about. For those of you who don't, I hope you are scoring waves wherever you might live!