I’m not searching for waves. I’m not traveling the globe in search of perfection. The world spins without me and perfect waves break in every ocean. My time is spent searching, but for something much harder to find than a perfect wave. My search is to find the source.
Some people devote their entire life seeking this truth, while others never stop once to think about it. Others think they found it on page twenty-five, while others will read the entire book and still not get it.
I’m not alone in my quest; there are many of us in the water. Each person searching for their truth of what the source means to them. Every time I enter the water, I look up to the sky – I can feel the water crashing. The ocean’s power and serenity guides me to find the balance in my life.
There are some surfers in the water that do not understand the source (at least not yet). They are called groms. I don’t need to define grom – there is no definition, just a common knowledge. They are in the water. They surround us. They are a breed of animals that are wild, but go to sleep early every night. They will one day grow up to be us and that’s where it gets complicated.
They must learn of the source, just like young Luke learned about the Force. The dark side is powerful and exists throughout the world. When a grom is born, he or she actually has to make a decision. Will I dedicate my life to surfing or soccer? Will I be good or evil? Will I wear black or white? Will I pick up my trash or leave it behind for the next person? Let me give you an example. When you are taking off on a wave and someone drops in on you, it represents the dark side. A grom gone bad.
Understanding that groms do get in the way and as troublesome as they may be, they do serve a purpose. The tad pole becomes the frog. The caterpillar becomes the butterfly (girl grom). Groms transform and grow up.
As young surfers transform, they begin to sense a deeper understanding of the ocean. But only the surfers that stay true to their cause find harmony in the water. They sense there is something else out there. You can see it in their surfing. They are no longer fighting for waves, but rather becoming one with the wave. A certain respect between themselves and the environment. And at this very moment in time, they understand and their search now begins.