Catching waves in a Crowd
We have all had those surf sessions where the surf is horrible and it seems like every surfer in the world is attempting to surf your local spot. The waves are inconsistent and to make matters worse all the beginners are sitting on the inside. So what do you do when you find yourself in this situation?
Your first option is to look for a peak either up or down the beach. Chances are the set waves are hitting a sand bar down a little from the main peak. And if no one is surfing that peak then that is your chance to escape the crowd. The trick is to paddle to the spot without drawing attention to yourself because you want to surf the peak by yourself.
If you are stuck at one peak then you need to get creative. Try to backdoor the peak – takeoff early or go backside. For example if there is a long right that everyone is trying to catch, then catch the left even if it is a short ride towards a pier or other obstacle. Chances are you will be the only one catching the left.
Lastly just practice spotting set waves and getting into the best wave position possible. Once you have caught the wave, then you can call people off the wave, who have cut you off.
Using Rip Currents
As surfers we have an advantage over swimmers and Bodyboards. We can use rip currents to our advantage and get into the line up a lot faster. Becuase we are on surfboards it is also safer to use a rip current than for instance a swimmer. The trick is to be able to spot a strong rip current and to know how to use it effectivly.
Generally you just want to jump into a rip current and start paddling out. It will pull you out past the waves and then you can paddle into the line-up. The biggest thing is to not ditch or loose your surfboard. But as long as you have floatation (surfboard) than you should be fine. At first when you start doing this it might be a little scary, but you will learn that using rip currents to your advantage will help you get out past big waves. Also remember to never go out in waves bigger than your abilities.
Classic Longboarding – The Art
Many people are drawn to longboarding due to the ease of paddling and the fact that you can catch the smallest of waves. But what many surfers do not realize is that you can still surf a longboard as an advance surfer. But surfing a longboard when learning how to surf; and when you are confident surfer are to different things. Once you become a condifdent and skilled surfer, riding a longboard becomes more about style than performance. Short of like an art. I encorage you to try riding a classic single fin longboard. When you go back to riding your shortboard it will feel 10x faster and looser.
A Trip to SD
I was able to escape to San Diego a few days ago and snapped a few photos while down there. After being down there for a day, it reminded me that I need to try to surf down there at least once a month.
All Photos Property and CopyRighted of The Surfboard Man
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