Bruce Brown - The Legend Behind the Camera

Bruce Brown is one of the most iconic figures in the surfing world. His distinctive narrating voice is one of the reasons he was so successful. Mr. Brown also had a eye for camera shots and cinematography. Many people give credit to Bruce Brown as bringing surfing mainstream. Bruce loved surfing and he used that passion to create truly remarkable films.

Before making movies, Bruce Brown was a lifeguard in San Clemente. One day Bruce received something that would turn the direction of his life forever. Dale Vezly give Bruce $5,000 to make a surf movie promoting Dale Vezly's surf team. What I like about Bruce's story is how someone believed in him and gave him a shot at what he was good at (making movies). What started as a single job turned into a lifelong career for Bruce Brown.

Many surfers credit you with making surfing mainstream via "The Endless Summer", do you agree with this claim?

No, my intention was only to make a film for the general public to enjoy. I had no plan beyond that. Any other outcomes from the movie were completely unintentional.

The Endless Summer came out when you were 27, how did you react to the somewhat unreal reaction and fame from the public?                                                                                 

It was completely unexpected. I never imagined it. I just wanted to make a movie.

If you could credit one person who influenced or taught you the most in life, who would it be?     I would say two people: Dale Velzy,who supported me and bought my first camera, and my wife.

What is your favorite behind the scenes memory during the production of The Endless Summer?

There were really so many experiences during the making of the film that are favorites, so it is impossible to name one. I guess I would say that my time in Africa was probably most memorable. Not a specific occasion, but there were just so many unexpected events that really added to the richness of the experience.

What kind of surfboards are you riding these days?

Long boards. I like to try whatever I get my hands on.

What is your all time favorite surf spot?

I think I would have to say Hollister.

What are your other hobbies?

Motorcycling and rally races.

Can you tell me about your family, kids, grandkids etc?

My wife passed away; I have 3 kids and 8 grandchildren.

Don't Fall

There is often a debate about whether falling while surfing is good because you are trying difficult maneuvers or if it means you are not a good surfer. I think falling can be good if you are improving and figuring out why you fell. However every once in a while try going a whole session without falling. It will make you consider and perfect each maneuver and surf the wave smarter.

Glassy Conditions

The best thing for surfing is glassy surf conditions. The term “glassy” comes from the appearance when the ocean is smooth and not choppy. Glassy conditions are most common in the early morning dawn patrol or late in the afternoon.

This is why if the surf is good, it can be super crowded in the morning. Glassy conditions come from either no wind or light offshore conditions. Surfing glassy conditions is really fun no matter how big it is because the waves stand up very well and don't close out.

Keeping your Backpack Safe

Do you surf alone and leave a backpack or other items on the beach. From time to time we all do and it can be pretty risky. We all get distracted and there is no way we can watch our stuff on the beach and focus on surfing at the same time. Surfers are prime subjects for theft because we often drop backpacks on the beach and rush into the water to start surfing. Continue reading to find out a trick to prevent becoming a victim in theft......

When out in a lineup it can often be difficult to see out backpack or bag to ensure no one is taking anything from it. To deter someone from taking items from your bag cover it with your towel. This deters people from taking stuff and prevents them from seeing your backpack. This is just one way to protect your personal belongings.

Heated Wetsuits

When surfing started there was a small group of surfers who braved cold water and lonely beaches to get a session in year round. You could only surf for about 30min. Because the water was to cold without wetsuits. These days thick and heated wetsuits allow you to surf in some of the coldest oceans and beaches in the world.

With more advanced and in turn warmer wetsuits the prices continue to rise. The major debate is whether the higher prices are worth the product which you are getting. Some wetsuit manufactures have been testing and constructing heated wetsuits.

These wetsuits can keep you warm in most any conditions, yet they do come with a price that is more than many surfers prefer to spend. But if you can find the extra money and plan on going to surf in the most extreme conditions than go for it.

Retro Surfboards

In all aspects of the world, retro is making a comeback. But what is considered “retro”? Is it something from the past or a new trend which reminds people of something of the past. Retro is definitely coming back for surfing. Look on the board racks of your surf shop. Look at the new and poplar board shorts. Right now it is a Ride anything; wear anything era.

Retro surfboards are becoming more and more popular as many people downsize their quivers. This is because retro boards are more versatile. Paddle into most line-ups and you will see at least one fish, single fin or classic longboard. The reason for this is because retro boards are often loose and offer a look into the past. 

My favorite retro board to ride is a twin keel fin fish.

Know your Limits

Every year hundreds of beach goers and surfers go into surf conditions which are past their limits and boundaries. This puts lifeguard's and their lives at risk. I have seen this countless times before and I cringe every time I know that someone is going to be a rescuer for a lifeguard. An example of this is when California gets a strong south swell. The swell usually brings long lulls in between sets. This is when inexperienced get in trouble. They often are in the impact zone right when a big set comes.

Knowing your limits is essential to your well being and safety. It is not right to put a lifeguard's life at risk to come rescue you in strong and rough surf. Knowing and stopping at your limits is nothing to be embarrassed about. It is actually very smart. Even I have limits and there have been days that I have gone to the beach, but never went in because I was not up for the long paddle and even longer hold downs. We all have those days when it just isn't worth it. After saying that you should always push yourself to surf bigger waves if it is safe.

So you might be wondering how to train for big waves and increase your limits. The best thing to do is practice swimming long distances and swimming the length of a pool underwater (25 Meters). This will expand you lung capacity and endurance. When swimming underwater for long distances always make sure someone is watching you to make sure you do not black out underwater. Safety is key and knowing your limits will keep you safe.

Staying warm when surfing in the winter

Surfing in the winter can be a test of a surfers dedication to the sport and tolerance of cold water. It is not pleasant and sometimes down right extreme. Sometimes winter rewards surfers with great waves and other times there are no waves.

There are many tricks and tips to staying warm and avoid hypothermia. Some of these tips are expensive such as an expensive and thick heated wetsuit. However, my favorite and free trick is “Stay Active – Stay Warm” By staying active you will stay warmer. So when it is cold stay active by catching a lot of waves or moving around the line-up. Staying warm will also keep you from cramping. The real trick to enjoying a cold winter surf session is to stay warm and active.