Bruce Brown – The Legend Behind the Camera
Bruce Brown is one of the most iconic figures in the surfing world. His distinctive narrating voice is one of the reasons he was so successful. Mr. Brown also had a eye for camera shots and cinematography. Many people give credit to Bruce Brown as bringing surfing mainstream. Bruce loved surfing and he used that passion to create truly remarkable films.
Before making movies, Bruce Brown was a lifeguard in San Clemente. One day Bruce received something that would turn the direction of his life forever. Dale Vezly give Bruce $5,000 to make a surf movie promoting Dale Vezly’s surf team. What I like about Bruce’s story is how someone believed in him and gave him a shot at what he was good at (making movies). What started as a single job turned into a lifelong career for Bruce Brown.
I was fortunate to interview Bruce Brown (Bruce filmed the Endless Summer) a few days ago. The full interview is below…Enjoy
Many surfers credit you with making surfing mainstream via “The Endless Summer”, do you agree with this claim?
No, my intention was only to make a film for the general public to enjoy. I had no plan beyond that. Any other outcomes from the movie were completely unintentional.
The Endless Summer came out when you were 27, how did you react to the somewhat unreal reaction and fame from the public?
It was completely unexpected. I never imagined it. I just wanted to make a movie.
If you could credit one person who influenced or taught you the most in life, who would it be?
I would say two people: Dale Velzy,who supported me and bought my first camera, and my wife.
What is your favorite behind the scenes memory during the production of The Endless Summer?
There were really so many experiences during the making of the film that are favorites, so it is impossible to name one. I guess I would say that my time in Africa was probably most memorable. Not a specific occasion, but there were just so many unexpected events that really added to the richness of the experience.
What kind of surfboards are you riding these days?
Long boards. I like to try whatever I get my hands on.
What is your all time favorite surf spot?
I think I would have to say Hollister.
What are your other hobbies?
Motorcycling and rally races.
Can you tell me about your family, kids, grandkids etc?
My wife passed away; I have 3 kids and 8 grandchildren.
Make Sure you check out Bruce Brown’s website as well.
Win a surfboard!!
Do you follow me on Twitter
Do you follow me on Twitter?
Google Earth
Back in the day a surfer looking for a surf spot to travel to, which has never been surfed, would turn to a map. You used a paper map which only showed the outlines of untouched islands and reefs. You couldn’t see the terrain visually or other important things. That stayed the same for many years until Google Earth came along.
Once Google earth came it changed surf travel for ever. It allows surfers to scour the globe in search of secret and untouched surf breaks. You can see the actual visual picture of the spot you are looking at to see the terrain around the spot. This helps if you want to get an idea of how deep the water is or what kind break it is. You can also look at many different points or outcroppings which could produce some great surf. Overall Google Earth has made looking for untouched surf spots a lot easier.
Don’t Fall
There is often a debate about whether falling while surfing is good because you are trying difficult maneuvers or if it means you are not a good surfer. I think falling can be good if you are improving and figuring out why you fell. However every once in a while try going a whole session without falling. It will make you consider and prefect each maneuver and surf the wave smarter.
Glassy Conditions
The best thing for surfing is glassy surf conditions. The term “glassy” comes from the appearance when the ocean is smooth and not choppy. Glassy conditions are most common in the early morning dawn patrol or late in the afternoon. This is why if the surf is good, it can be super crowded in the morning. Glassy conditions come from either no wind or light offshore conditions. Surfing glassy conditions is really fun no matter how big it is because the waves stand up very well and don’t close out.
-
TSM T-Shirts
