Operation Amped
When I first got in contact with Dan through a mutual friend I only knew that he was involved with some sort of Organization who helped veterans get back in the water and surf. What I didn’t know is how great this program is and how it is making a difference in the wounded veterans lives. I would like to thank Dan for providing this interview in the hopes of getting the word out about “Operation Amped.
About Operation Amped:
The program is called Operation Amped and it was founded by a guy in Los Angeles after he saw a “60 Minutes” story on returning veterans. The story highlighted the advancements of battlefield medicine and the dramatic reduction in loss of life in the Iraq and Afghan conflicts. The unexpected consequence of this is that many of our soldiers and marines are returning with serious disabilities. The founder of Operation Amped, realizing what a positive and healing influence surfing has been in his life, decided to help these injured young men and women. The program is basically a day at the beach, something so simple but a difficult task if you have a prosthetic limb or are in a wheelchair. It’s just a fun day where the veterans can learn to surf in a structured environment as well as showing our appreciation for their sacrifice.
How did you get involved?
I saw a very small article in an even smaller local newspaper about Operation Amped. After serving in the military in the post-Vietnam era, I saw first hand how bad treatment of returning war vets really screwed them up. My wife and I knew we had to get involved.
What do you personally do involving the program?
I’m mostly an in the water guy; either as a primary instructor or hanging on the inside and getting the vets turned around and back outside for another wave. The range of disabilities runs from double amputees above the knees to traumatic brain injuries to paraplegics and quadriplegics. Most of these young men and women were very active and athletic before their injuries so some of them take to surfing naturally. The more disabled guys just ride the waves in on their bellies but the stoke is no less. Equally important as the surfing is the interaction on the beach. We listen to their stories, talk about the normal things, and just give them a day at the beach where they can hang out and have fun.
What do you see as the importance of the program?
First and foremost is for us to thank them for their service and sacrifice. I can only imagine that after giving so much, it would be great to feel that people appreciated it. Several of these guys have told me that their lives were full adrenaline: young, tough guys go from the rush of combat to the pain and boredom of hospitals, surgeries, rehabilitation, and then sitting on the couch at home. For some of them, surfing has been the first exciting thing they’ve done since they were “blown up” (that’s what the vets call it). It is also a first step toward living a normal life again.
How can others get involved?
All you have to do is go to the Operation Amped website and volunteer! If you can instruct surfing, great. If you want to help on the beach, that’s needed as well. If you want to donate money, boards, lunches, anything to help these young men and women is so appreciated.
Has volunteering had any specific impact on your life?
How could it not. You can’t help but be touched by a 19 year old kid who lost his legs in Fallujah thanking you over and over for taking him surfing. We tell these vets this is about us thanking them. All of the every day stresses of life shrink in the rear view mirror after you spend a day with these vets.
What is your favorite part of the program or favorite memory?
My favorite part of the program has to be seeing the stoke when you get these guys to stand up and ride the white wash in for the first time. That is a turning point in every surfer’s life, but when you have one titanium leg, that’s stoke times 100.
By far the heaviest memory is an incident that happened while at a Veteran’s Administration event in San Diego. A veteran had been injured in a roadside bomb attack and his doctors told him that he was paralyzed from the waist down. While bellying a wave in, he hit a little cross-chop and was knocked off his board. When he went face down in the water, his reaction was to start swimming. To his surprise, he was able to kick with his legs. All of the doctors had told him that he was paralyzed and his legs couldn’t move, but when he hit the water, he just reacted. His physical therapist was also at the event and when he told her what happened, she said that the following Monday, he would immediately begin a new type of physical therapy in the pool to hopefully regain his ability to walk.
Click on the Picture Below to go to their Website:
Session Saver – July Giveaway – LAST Chance
We have all had those days when the waves are perfect and we could surf all day. Sounds great until you get a ding and have to go home to fix it. Sure you can use Sun Cure but it has to fully cure and then it needs to be sanded. This is where Session Saver comes in – Session Saver can save your from having to leave the beach when the waves are firing. Session Saver is a putty which can fix both “PU” and “Epoxy” boards. Did I mention this stuff can cure under water? Simply work the putty into the ding and it cures within 15-20 minutes. You don’t even have to sand it. This is definitely the future of ding repair on the go!
I use session saver because of its easy application and good results. It isn’t has good as getting a ding fixed by a professional, but it sure does get the job done. The application is easy to learn and saves a lot of time. Fix the ding and surf on it the same day. I love the fact that their is no sanding required. Save some money, use Session Saver and fix dings yourself.
HOW TO WIN – A tube of “Session Saver – All you need to do is sign up to receive email updates from The Surfboard Man. Just enter your email address below and confirm your subscription. If you have already signed and confirmed up you will be automatically entered.
Official Rules:
Must be located in the US
No immediate Family Members of The Surfboard Man
All Current Subscribers will be entered
Contest will end on July 31
Winner will be notified via email by August. 3.
Winner must respond with a mailing address within 1 week.
Rhythm
Most surfers experience good and bad surf sessions. Where you either catch a ton of waves or catch 1 wave. Wave count is what makes a great session. However quality is better than quantity. I believe a lot of good surf sessions happen because of good rhythm. If you think about it your last “bad” session started with struggling to catch your first wave. To start a good surf rhythm wait for a good first wave. Getting a good first wave will start your rhythm. I find that good rhythm makes or breaks a surf session. However, I am not saying that rhythm is the only thing that affects the outcome of your surf session. Just watch a ASP surf contest, you can tell which surfers have good rhythm.
See Ya at The Beach,
The Surfboard Man
Surf Rash
One thing many beginner surfers experience is a rash from a surfboard. This is most common on soft-tops. The ruff material that provides traction tends to irritate your skin. The common places for this rash is on your stomach or legs. The rash can be painful and annoying. There are three products I reccomend to protect your skin….
1. Headhunter Rash Guard – apply directly to the rash
2. Baby Diaper Rash Cream – apply directly to the rash
3. Vaseline – put this on before you go surfing… it will do the trick.
See Ya at The Beach,
The Surfboard Man
Used Board Make Over
Ever wonder how to clean up a used board and make it look like new?
Here is how:
1. Take all of the wax off the board. The wax just makes the board look dirty. A new wax job can change the appearance of a board and make it look really good.
2. Use Firewater on both sides of the board to get all the residue, sand and dirt off the board.
3. Identify all dings that need to be repaired and repair them.
4. Sand out any rough spots from previous ding repairs.
5. Polish you board with some sort of wax or Board Spank .
The board will now look better than when you got it and it is ready to surf. Remember the up keep of your boards is essential to the longevity of you gear.
From This..
To This..
See Ya at The Beach,
The Surfboard Man
Night Surfing
Every experienced surfer has gone night surfing at least once. Whether it was to escape the crowds when the surf was firing or just for the fun of it. The rush of adrenaline is like nothing else around. However, night surfing is not all fun, there are some risks involved. No one can see you and you can’t see anyone else unless you are sitting really close together. There are also no lifeguards on duty if something goes wrong. All ways try to surf a point break or reef break where the waves break in the same spot everytime. When night surfing always surf with a buddy.
See Ya at The Beach,
The Surfboard Man
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